Chianti Classico as a region stands to represent the varietal with which it is so synonymously intertwined, Sangiovese. Globally the DOCG is cordoned within the threshold of a stylistic singularity, yet the region boasts more than eight thousand hectares under vine and a multitude of soil structures, thus the diversity in its wines are extensive, despite the initial assumptions of many. Also implemented in the region is a quality tier system akin to that of Rioja: Annata, Riserva and Gran Selezione. Efforts of Chianti Classico vintners remain with red wine, after recent prohibition on white varietals such as Trebbiano and Malvasia, but with more than 2000 years of winemaking history and 300 years of the black rooster approval seals, the wines will endeavour in fervent quality.
Monte Bernardi is a name with almost a millennia attached to its history. Located in Panzano, Greve, of the Chianti Classico DOCG, the estate has been exposed to the effects of temporal progress and was likely destroyed in the feuds of Siena and Florence on more than three, separate occasions; in 1260, 1397 and again somewhere in the 1500’s, each time, along with much of the townsake. The buildings that now stand on the estate are over three-hundred years old, yet the first wines made, in the knowledge of its history, were produced in 1992, by Giorgio Marrone (winemaker) and Stak Aivaliotis (then, owner), priorly the grapes grown here would be outsourced to neighbouring Chianti producers. Now owned, since 2003, by Michael Schmelzer, a decorated oenologist from Michigan and practician of biodynamics, the winery thrives with the attitude of small industry and classify the sub-regions of the DOCG whereby it operates.
Situated on the large 53ha estate, onlooking the river Pesa, the vineyard is made up of 14.8ha of primarily Sangiovese (90%), though also grown is: Canaiolo Nero, Merlot, Cab Franc, Cab Sauv, Colorino and Petit Verdo; 9.5ha of these vines are averaging an age of near 50 years. Certified organic since 2012 and biodynamic since 2004, the vines are expertly tended by vineyard manager Roberto Mogni, as per the salubrious benefit of the surrounding area, including the act of hand-harvest, conservative tilling and natural fertilizer.
The terroir of Panzano is respective of the Chianti Classico DOCG and Monte Bernardi is nonetheless of an exceptional locational instance. On South-facing slopes, the Bernardi vineyard ostensibly reaps prosperity from day-long sunshine, as well as concomitant cooling from the nearby river of Pesa, helping to manage the climactic temperature of the plots. Soils here are comprised of shale, sandstone and limestone, known most to imbue grapes with a wealth of anthocyanins, particularly important for the vinification of Chianti Classico, whereby emphasis to the richness is impelled from the Sangiovese varietal.
Conceptualized as a triumphant nod to the traditional Chianti Classico fiasco bottles, Fiasco! is equally as girthy in its style. To the nose is bestowed notes of; elderberry, black cherry, rich brambles and fresh tobacco, a deep upstream of intense redolence. On the palate, the wine is a little more herbaceous and poignant; sour cherries, green herb, dried leaves and balsamic. The mouthfeel is broad in the middle with developing complexity, unsundered by the encroachment of overweighted tannins, it elapses in a relishable finish. Expressively Sangiovese, the wine is expertly balanced – a Classico against the grain.
Somm Coull 